Build a Log Holder from Plumbing Pipes: Complete DIY Guide

Why build a log holder from plumbing pipes

A log holder made from plumbing pipes combines industrial strength with raw aesthetics. Built with malleable cast iron fittings and threaded steel pipes, it effortlessly supports the weight of a hundred logs while adding character to your interior.

Unlike mass-produced sheet-metal firewood racks, a plumbing-pipe model is virtually indestructible. Black cast iron fittings manufactured to the EN 10242 standard offer exceptional mechanical strength, and the BSPT threading system allows fully screw-together assembly — no welding, no specialist tools.

Mounted on a solid wooden base fitted with casters, this log holder rolls easily next to the fireplace or wood stove. And if you move house, it disassembles just as quickly as it goes together.

Required materials for your log holder

The frame uses 3/4" (DN20) fittings, a good compromise between strength and aesthetics. The H-shaped layout (viewed from above) creates a rigid four-legged frame, ideal for keeping logs in place.

Required fittings and pipes

Black equal tee F/F/F (Ref. 130) Black 90° elbow F/F (Ref. 90) 3/4" black floor flange 3/4" threaded black steel pipe Wood screws 4.5 × 40 mm Swivel casters

Building your log holder: step by step

Step 1 — Assemble the H-frame

The upper frame forms an "H" when viewed from above. The two tees (Ref. 130) are the central nodes of the H, connected by a central pipe. The four side outlets each receive a horizontal pipe ending in a 90° elbow.

1. Screw the central pipe (40 cm) between the two equal tees (Ref. 130), each oriented with the branch pointing in the same direction (downward).
2. Into the two side outlets of each tee, screw the four horizontal pipes (25 cm).
3. Finish each horizontal pipe with a 90° elbow F/F (Ref. 90), oriented downward.

Hand-tighten, then give an extra quarter turn with an adjustable wrench. Check that the frame sits flat by placing it upside down on a level surface.

Step 2 — Attach the vertical legs

Flip the H-frame over so the elbows face upward. Screw the four vertical pipes (80 cm) into the lower outlets of the elbows. These pipes form the four uprights of the log holder.

Then screw a floor flange (Ref. 321) onto the end of each vertical pipe. The flanges will be used to attach the frame to the wooden base.

Step 3 — Prepare the wooden base

Cut your board to the base dimensions (69 × 55 cm for the Medium size, see the dimensions table below). The base should extend beyond the flanges (Ø 65 mm) for a clean look — allow approximately 2.5 cm of margin on each side beyond the flange footprint.

Sand the surface (120 grit then 180 grit), apply your chosen finish (see the dedicated section below), and drill pilot holes for the flange mounting screws.

Step 4 — Mount the flanges and casters

Place the frame upside down (legs pointing up) and set the wooden base on the four flanges. Mark the fixing holes, then screw each flange down with 4 stainless steel wood screws (4 × 20 mm).

Flip the whole assembly over and attach the four casters underneath the base, at the four corners. Choose swivel casters with brakes so you can lock the log holder in place in front of the fireplace.

Detailed dimensions in 3/4"

All dimensions account for thread engagement into the fittings (15 mm per end in 3/4"). The table below presents three sizes suited to different spaces and needs.

Pipe cutting details

Dimension calculation details (Medium size)

For those who want to understand or adapt the dimensions:

• Depth: Elbow (z=18) + pipe 250 + Tee through-run (2×z=36) + pipe 250 + Elbow (z=18) = 572 mm
• Width: Tee (z=18) + pipe 400 + Tee (z=18) = 436 mm
• Height: Elbow (z=18) + pipe 800 + Flange (H-emb=3) = 821 mm + base 25 mm + casters 65 mm = ≈ 94 cm
• Overall footprint: flanges have Ø 65 mm, so add 65 mm to centre-to-centre dimensions for the actual floor footprint (e.g. 572 + 65 = 637 mm depth, 436 + 65 = 501 mm width).

Wooden base dimensions (with overhang)

Steel finishes: protecting and enhancing your pipes

Black cast iron fittings and steel pipes have a highly attractive raw look, but untreated steel can develop slight oxidation over time. First degrease all parts with acetone, then choose your finish.

• Boiled linseed oil or metal oil (Owatrol): applied with a cloth, it nourishes the metal, prevents rust and deepens the black tone. Reapply once a year. This is our recommendation.
• Matt spray varnish (Rust-Oleum, Hammerite): 2 thin coats for durable, invisible protection. Ideal if logs are stored while still damp.
• Beeswax for metal: silky feel, light protection, near-invisible finish. For indoor use in a dry room.
• High-temperature paint (matt black, bronze, copper): metal primer + 2 coats. Relevant if the log holder is placed near a wood stove.
• Controlled rust patina: intentionally oxidise the steel with salt water + white vinegar, then seal with matt varnish. An aged look that is very on-trend in farmhouse or loft decor.

The wooden base: options and finishes

The base plays a dual role: it receives the floor flanges of the frame and serves as a platform for the casters. Its choice is decisive for the overall appearance of the piece. Here are several approaches, from the simplest to the most creative.

Option 1 — Single-piece solid panel

The simplest and cleanest solution. Buy a solid oak, beech or ash board in the required dimensions (see the dimensions table above). Oak is the premium choice: dense, hard and naturally durable, its pronounced grain pairs perfectly with black cast iron.

• Thickness: 25 to 30 mm for oak, 30 to 40 mm for softwoods (fir, pine, spruce) which are less hard.
• Where to find: local sawmills, DIY stores (solid wood section), joinery shops, or online from specialist cut-to-size wood suppliers.
• Advantage: no assembly, quick straight cut, perfectly flat surface.

Option 2 — Glued-up edge-joined boards

If you cannot find a panel wide enough, join 3 to 5 boards edge to edge to create the top. This technique produces a very attractive result, especially if you alternate species or widths.

• Assembly: glue the edges with D3 wood glue (moisture-resistant) and clamp with clamps for 24 h. For a perfect result, joint the edges on a jointer or with a hand plane before gluing.
• Optional reinforcement: attach two cross battens perpendicular to the underside of the top (screwed from below), at the flange locations. The battens stiffen the assembly and act as reinforcement for the flange screws.
• Aesthetic variation: alternate light oak and dark walnut boards for a striking striped effect with the black cast iron.

Option 3 — Glued laminated panel

Readily available at DIY superstores, glulam panels (beech, pine or birch) can be cut to the required dimensions and come pre-assembled and sanded. This is the quickest solution if you do not want to join boards.

• Advantage: stable, flat, no warping, ready to finish.
• Disadvantage: the look is more "industrial" than raw solid wood, but thorough sanding and a tinted wood stain solve the problem.

Option 4 — Reclaimed wood

For an authentic, eco-friendly look, reclaimed wood offers a character impossible to replicate with new timber.

• Pallet boards: assemble 3 or 4 sanded pallet boards, held together by two battens screwed underneath. The worn look, nail marks and colour variations reinforce the industrial character. Note: only salvage pallets stamped "HT" (heat-treated), never chemically treated pallets (stamped "MB").
• Old barn boards or floorboards: reclaimed boards from demolitions have a beautiful natural patina. De-nailed, lightly sanded (80 grit to preserve character) and assembled, they make a unique base.
• Railway sleepers or old timbers: for a massive, imposing base, a section of sleeper or thick timber (60 to 80 mm) delivers a spectacular raw look. No need to join multiple boards — a single piece will do.
• Old table top or reclaimed door: a vintage oak table top cut to size, or a solid wood door recycled into a base, make excellent bases with a story.

Option 5 — Thick raw wood piece

For maximum impact, use a large piece of raw wood as the base: a tree slice (round), flitches (first boards off a log with the bark), or a solid butcher’s block.

• Tree slice: a round 60 to 80 mm thick, sanded on the faces with the bark left on the edges (live-edge style). Spectacular, but the trunk must be wide enough and the wood well-seasoned (6 months minimum) to prevent cracking.
• Flitch or live-edge slab: a board with a natural raw edge (irregular natural shape) creates a striking contrast with the strict geometry of the pipes. Sand the surface, keep the natural edge, stabilise with epoxy resin if needed.
• Recycled butcher’s block: thick, heavy and ultra-stable, it is the ideal base if you can find one in the right dimensions. Zero risk of bending, even under 150 kg of firewood.

Option 6 — Tray-style base with raised edges

To prevent bark debris, sawdust and insects from falling on the floor, turn the base into a tray with raised edges.

• Cut 4 boards 3 to 5 cm high to the top dimensions.
• Glue and nail (or screw) the edges onto the sides of the top.
• The base becomes a tray that catches bark pieces and dust — particularly useful if the log holder sits on hardwood flooring or a rug.
• Variation: if you have access to a wooden crate (wine crate, military crate, shipping crate), it can serve directly as a tray-base without any cutting. Simply check that the dimensions match the flange footprint.

Wooden base finishes

• Hard oil (Osmo, Rubio Monocoat): invisible protection, natural feel, easy to maintain. Ideal for oak and fine hardwoods.
• Matt polyurethane varnish: maximum protection against water and impacts, slightly satin finish. The best choice if logs are stored while still damp.
• Tinted wood stain: lets you darken the wood (walnut, ebony, wengé) to match the black cast iron. Two coats for an even result.
• Shou Sugi Ban charring: a Japanese surface-charring technique using a blowtorch that produces a spectacular carbonised appearance. The wood becomes resistant to insects and moisture. In perfect harmony with the black pipes — this is our favourite finish for this project.
• Beeswax: traditional finish, pleasant scent, light protection. Perfect for pallet wood or reclaimed wood.
• Clear epoxy resin: for irregular edges (flitches, tree slices), the resin fills cracks and stabilises the wood while creating a striking visual effect.

Casters: mobility and practicality

Casters turn a static storage unit into mobile furniture. A loaded log holder can weigh between 40 and 120 kg, so you need suitable casters.

• Load capacity: at least 40 kg each (i.e. 160 kg total for 4 casters).
• Diameter: 50 to 75 mm. Larger = smoother rolling on hardwood or tile floors.
• Brake: swivel with built-in brake to lock the log holder in place. Two braking casters minimum.
• Material: rubber or polyurethane wheels to protect floors and roll silently.
• Mounting: screw-on plate (4 screws per caster). Make sure the plate does not extend beyond the base.
• Style: for the industrial look, choose vintage cast iron or black steel casters with rubber wheels. Standard black casters also work.

Inspiration: the log holder in its setting

Placed next to a fireplace, the plumbing-pipe log holder becomes a true decorative feature.

Frequently asked questions about the plumbing-pipe log holder