Shall we make a lovely home for your jewellery? A few black pipes and a wooden base are all it takes to create a jewellery stand for your chest of drawers. You can hang necklaces and bracelets on it, and even give a watch its own spot. We'll guide you from choosing the parts to fitting the very last cap.
First, choose the design you like: one rail to keep your favourites within reach, or two tiers to spread them out. Both work the same way: the pipes and fittings screw together. There's no metal cutting or welding involved. We'll just use a drill to make the three small pilot holes that secure the foot to the wood.
The scenes in this tutorial are illustrations generated from the 3D models. You'll find actual product photos in the materials list.
One rail or two tiers: it's up to you
Before ordering, lay out the jewellery you'd like to keep on your stand. It's a great place to start: you'll soon see whether you need more room for bracelets, a few watches or long necklaces.
The single-rail version is the quicker one to assemble. It has a foot, an upright and two arms, with a cap at each end. It's ideal for displaying a small selection without crowding everything onto one rail.
With two tiers, you have a short lower rail and a longer upper one. This lets you keep bracelets and shorter pieces separate from necklaces. Save the ends of the top rail for your longest chains, so they can hang down beside the lower rail.
Try out the position on your chest of drawers
For this tutorial, we suggest a base measuring 35 × 22 cm, with a thickness of 24 to 30 mm. Cut a paper rectangle to that size and place it where the stand will go. You'll get a good idea of the space it needs. If you don't have the tools to cut wood, have the board cut to size before you start.
To check how much hanging space a necklace needs, drape it over a pencil held horizontally and measure down to the pendant. You can compare this with your assembled stand before fixing it to the base.
One thing to remember: part of each pipe screws into the fittings. The stated lengths include the threads, which are about 1 cm long at each end in this range. For example, if a 20 cm pipe screws in by 1 cm at each end, about 18 cm remains visible between the fittings. The fittings and base then add their own height to the finished stand.
Let's gather the parts and tools
All the pipes and fittings for this project come from the black-painted decorative range, in 3/4″ (20/27). You'll find that size on the product pages: it refers to the thread used to screw the parts together.
Not familiar with the names yet? Take a look at the shapes. The floor flange is the round foot with three holes. The tee is shaped like a T and connects three pipes. The cross has four openings and is used for the two-tier model. Finally, the caps screw onto the ends of the arms to finish them off.
| HI part | 1 tier | 2 tiers |
|---|---|---|
 Black-painted floor flange |
1 | 1 |
 20 cm painted pipe |
1 | 1 |
| 10 cm painted pipe |
— | 3 |
| 15 cm painted pipe |
2 | 2 |
 Painted cross with 4 female openings |
— | 1 |
 Painted tee with 3 female openings |
1 | 1 |
 Painted female threaded cap |
2 | 4 |
 Black wood and chipboard screw, 4 × 17 mm |
3 | 3 |
Click a part's name or photo to open its product page with the intended variant selected. For pipes, check the selected length carefully: the same photo may be used for several lengths.
You'll need 7 parts and 3 screws for one tier, or 13 parts and 3 screws for two tiers. The pipes screw straight into the fittings. The three screws are for securing the foot to the wood.
Choose the basket for your version, then check the contents and availability. Remember to source the wood, non-slip pads and finish separately.
What else to put on the table
- Your board, flat and free from cracks where the foot will be attached.
- Four non-slip pads suitable for the furniture the jewellery stand will sit on.
- Sandpaper, a sanding block and a clean cloth.
- A tape measure, pencil and screwdriver that fits the screw heads.
- A drill, a wood drill bit suitable for the screws, a depth stop and clamps to hold the board.
- Safety glasses for drilling and respiratory protection suitable for sanding dust.
- A wood finish if you'd like to stain or protect the wood, along with the protective equipment specified on its packaging.
We've chosen the shop's black 4 × 17 mm screws, which are recommended for small flange fixings on wooden boards, among other uses. Try passing a screw through the flange: the head should sit properly against it. Measure how far it projects underneath to check that the tip will stay within the wood's thickness.
Would you rather have some help with drilling? Put the board, flange and screws together. Whoever helps you will then have everything to hand to mark the three holes.
1. Let's prepare the wooden base
Set up on a clear, protected table. Lay your board flat and start by smoothing the edges with the sandpaper and block. We're removing small splinters to make the base pleasant to touch. Sand the faces too if needed, following the wood grain.
Wipe away the dust, then gently run your hand along the edges to feel for any rough spots. Now's also the time to choose the look of the wood: natural, stained, oiled… If you're applying a finish, follow its instructions for ventilation and drying. Give it the time it needs before continuing.
Let's leave the drill aside for now. We'll assemble the pipes first: that makes it easier to choose the stand's orientation and then mark the holes on the base.
2. Chosen one rail? Let's put it together
Lay out the flange, 20 cm pipe, tee, two 15 cm pipes and two caps in front of you. A cloth underneath will protect your table. The animation shows where each part goes before you begin.
- Let's start with the foot. Take the 20 cm pipe and screw it into the flange. Keep both parts in line and start gently by hand.
- Now add the tee at the top. Look at its T shape: the opening in the “stem” goes onto the upright. Once fitted, the other two openings face left and right.
- Next come the two arms. Screw a 15 cm pipe into each side of the tee. Hold the tee as you turn the pipe so you don't turn the rest of the assembly.
- Just the finishing touches now. Screw a cap onto the end of each arm. Your rail is taking shape!
If a part goes in crooked or resists from the first few turns, unscrew it and start again with it properly aligned. Don't force it. Avoid gripping the paint directly with pliers too, as they may leave marks.
When finished, the fittings should hold firmly and the arms should line up. A little thread may remain visible. The animation shows the screwing motion, not a set number of turns to copy. If you can't get a part into position without leaving it loose, send us a photo so we can help before you continue.
3. For two tiers, we'll add a cross
The principle is the same. This time, the cross sits above the long upright and supports the lower rail. The tee goes at the very top. Find your three 10 cm pipes: two will form the short arms, and the third will join the two tiers.
- Prepare the foot and upright. Screw the 20 cm pipe into the flange, then the cross onto the top of the pipe. Keep one opening facing up and the other two facing out to either side.
- Make the lower rail. Add a 10 cm pipe on the left and one on the right, then screw a cap onto each end.
- Let's move up a level. Screw the remaining 10 cm pipe into the top opening of the cross. Add the tee above it, with its central branch facing down.
- Finish the long rail. Screw the two 15 cm pipes into either side of the tee, then fit the last two caps.
As with the single-rail version, hold the adjacent fitting while screwing a part in: this avoids loosening what you've just assembled. The number of turns in the animation is only there to illustrate the motion.
Tighten the fittings fully, then turn them a little further in the tightening direction, applying a little extra force to align the upper pipes with the lower ones. Hold the adjacent fitting while making this adjustment, then step back to check that both rails are parallel. You should have a tee at the top, a cross below and four caps, one at each arm end. Now we can secure the frame to the wood.
4. Let's secure the stand to its base
Place the frame on the board with the arms running along the 35 cm side. Centre the foot both ways. Take a moment to look at the result: now is the time to adjust its position.
- Mark the three positions in pencil. Hold the flange still and put the pencil through each hole. Your own flange is the right template: follow its holes, rather than those in an illustration.
- Put the frame aside. Clamp the board to your work surface. It needs to stay still while drilling without you having to hold it near the bit.
- Prepare the drill. Choose a wood bit suitable for pilot holes for your screws and the wood you're using. If unsure, ask for advice and try it on an offcut of the same wood. Set the depth stop so that the bit, including its point, won't go through the base. Put on your safety glasses.
- Drill at your three marks. Drill straight, with hammer action switched off, then clear away the dust.
- Put the foot back in position. Start all three screws before tightening any one fully. Tighten them gradually and finish gently with a screwdriver. If a screw spins without gripping or the wood starts to split, stop and address the fixing.
The foot should now sit firmly on the wood. All that's left is to stick the four pads under the base near the corners, following their fitting instructions. Set the jewellery stand on a level surface and add your accessories gradually, spreading the weight on both sides to check that it stays stable.
The last step: give your favourites a home
Start with the jewellery you wear most often. Leave a little space between chains so you can choose a necklace without picking up its neighbours. On the two-tier model, put the longest ones at the ends of the upper rail so they don't catch on the lower one.
For a watch, open the strap, pass it around an arm and close it without pulling it tight. A little cushion or removable soft cover keeps the case, crown or clasp from resting directly on the metal. Take your time finding a comfortable position, without forcing a rigid bracelet.
For a closed bracelet, you can unscrew a cap and try slipping it over the end of the pipe. If it slides on freely, replace the cap afterwards. A small dish on the base makes a lovely finishing touch for your rings.
A soft cloth is all you need for everyday dusting. To move the stand, remove the jewellery first and lift it by the base. If a connection feels loose, take a moment to tighten it before putting your accessories back.
One more question?
Do I need to cut the pipes?
No, this range already comes in 10, 15 and 20 cm lengths. Choose the lengths in the table and you can go straight to assembly.
Can I change the dimensions?
Yes, to suit your accessories or furniture. Just remember that longer arms or a taller upright will change the balance, so the base will need adapting too. Adjust the parts in your basket, as the tutorial baskets correspond to the dimensions shown here.
What if I want to add a second tier later?
You can reuse the parts from the single-rail version. Add a cross, three 10 cm pipes and two caps, then reassemble the upper section following the two-tier instructions. Check that the stand remains stable with the new layout.
Can I use fittings from another range?
To follow this tutorial with the same parts, stick to the painted decorative range in the table. These fittings are intended for decoration, not pressurised plumbing or heavy loads.
If you'd like to learn more, our pipe diameter guide explains the sizes. You'll also find advice on choosing a floor flange.